Wednesday, January 11, 2017
Why Should We Hot Process Therapeutic Soaps.
Roughly translated from Roberto Akira's page, Akira is a 65 year old Brazilian Chemist who after retiring started sharing the knowledge he accumulated in 40 years of working with chemistry.
"Cold Process Soaps are beautiful and easy to make but the process has its drawbacks. All the components added to the soap go through saponification, this strong alkaline environment spares almost nothing, it literally destroys many active ingredients of all components.
There is a mistaken belief that things added at trace will be spared since most of the lye is gone. But in reality at trace only about 10% of the lye has been consumed to form the emulsion (trace), the rest remains there and will react the same to anything that is added. The idea that superfatting at trace will protect that particular oil, usually a noble oil, doesn't quite work like that. The superfat will still be just a mix of the oils and fats in the recipe, not the one added at trace.
Therefore it does not make much sense to advertise the efficacy of CP therapeutic soaps made with medicinal oils such as Neem, Andiroba and Copaiba. The therapeutic components of these oils no longer exist after the saponification, there will be the sodium salts of the fatty acids palmitic, stearic, oleic and linoleic, that are components of Neem oil, for example, but the active ingredients that make Neem a fantastic fungicide, antibacterial, antiviral and insecticide oil, are gone.
One could argue, for example, that in the case of Neem that certain components do not react with the soda and still remain intact, but this lacks scientific evidence, more so as the unsaponifiable content of Neem is zero.
In the HP the additives, including the superfat, are added at the end of the saponification process therefore protecting the properties of that specific oil or butter."
How To Use Our Butters
BACURI BUTTER
Unrefined Bacuri Butter has a strong, unusual scent - kinda like the smell of forest soil - some people love it, a few don't care for it, the scent dissipates fast though. Bacuri's color varies from lighter to very dark brown and the texture can be very smooth (sometimes a little liquid-ish) to harder and crumbly.
Bacuri gives your skin a beautiful natural glow, it makes the skin's appearance more even and, with long term use, it helps to diminish the appearance of hyper-pigmention and scars. You just need to melt the butter in your hands and spread it all over, remember: a little bit goes a long way and it will stain light fabrics before it is fully absorbed.
In Brazil this butter is widely used to help with skin conditions and as a massage butter for arthritis, rheumatism and muscle pain. It is also a wonderful Summer butter with sunblock and after sun care properties.
This butter can be used for hair care, I recommend it for darker hair, it is a great butter to protect your hair against external agents and for masks.
Due to its dark color and strong scent, it is not a very easy butter to incorporate into your body and skin formulations, but you definitely should try it, Bacuri has a very high absorption rate due to its high level of tripalmitine (50 to 55%), it also has a high level of palmitoleic fatty acid compared to the other butters which makes it a fantastic emollient.
CUPUACU BUTTER
Unrefined Cupuacu Butter has a very pleasant scent - similar to cocoa butter but fresher and fruitier - the color varies from light to darker yellow and the texture can be very smooth or a bit crumbly.
Cupuacu is perfect to be used pure on skin as a daily moisturizer due to its capacity to absorb water - 240% superior of lanolin - just rub the butter in your hands until melted and spread it all over, remember: a little bit goes a long way and give it a little time to be absorbed. A great way to use it is right after the shower when your body is still a little wet.
This butter is also wonderful for hair care, it can be used as a pre-poo treatment, as conditioner and leave-in - since it ABSORBS water it works better for dry, thicker hair types- curls, kinks or straight. It is perfect for African American hair styles, helping to keep hair and scalp healthy. To be used as a conditioner or leave-in just melt a little bit in your hands, for masks or treatments melt a larger amount of it in the microwave or even in a closed container under hot water.
Cupuacu is perfect for soap making, lip, hair and skin formulations, due to its beautiful color and scent, it is very easy to use. For colder weather you can whip it to make it easier to apply.
MURUMURU BUTTER
Unrefined Murumuru Butter has a pleasant subtle nutty scent, the color varies from off white to yellow and the texture is waxy.
Even though this is a harder butter, Murumuru is perfect to be used pure on skin since it is not greasy, absorbs super fast and has a subtle scent. It is a great butter for all skin types, even sensitive and oily skin. In Brazil this butter is prized by its antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties being used to help relief skin conditions like acne and psoriasis.
This butter is also wonderful for hair care, the high levels of lauric fatty acid make this butter a vegetable replacement for mineral silicone, it forms a protective film on skin and hair without harming the lipid exchange or clogging pores. Murumuru is a perfect finishing touch for fine hair prone to frizz and flyaways, it can be used as a hair glossier, a leave-in, and to protect hair from heat damage. To be used as a conditioner or leave-in just melt a little bit in your hands, for masks or treatments melt a larger amount of it on the microwave or even in a closed container under hot water.
Murumuru is good for soap making, and perfect for lip, hair and skin formulations, due to its beautiful color and scent, it is very easy to use. For colder weather you can whip it to make it easier to apply.
TUCUMA BUTTER
Unrefined Tucuma Butter has a sweet caramel/coffee/nutty scent that depending on area and season of production can be more subtle or more prominent, the color varies from light yellow to yellow and the texture is soft.
Tucuma and Murumuru butters have very similar properties, Tucuma is softer therefore easier to be applied alone on skin and hair, the feeling is little greasier. Tucuma is also a great butter for all skin types, forming a protective film on skin without clogging the pores.
Just like Murumuru, this butter is also wonderful for hair care, with the same high levels of lauric fatty acid, it can be used just like murumuru, how to choose? Tucuma is softer which makes it easier to use on cold climates, but it is also greasier and has a stronger scent.
Tucuma is good for soap making, lip, hair and skin formulations, due to its light color and nice scent, it is easily incorporated in DIY, all natural formulations.
UCUUBA BUTTER
Unrefined Ucuuba Butter has a strong scent that could be described as a "smoky beeswax", the color varies from golden brown to brown, this butter is VERY hard and it can be used as a vegan substitute for beeswax in recipes that need to be firmer - lip products, salves and balms.
This butter is too hard to be applied straight on skin or hair, it needs to be used as a blend with oils or much softer butters, a super quick recipe for body would be whipping 50% ucuuba and 50% oil, for maximun results I recommend one of my amazing oils but whatever good quality, unrefined oil you have handy in the kitchen will work too - coconut, olive or grape seed. In Brazil this butter is prized by its antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and healing properties.
For a simple and fast lip or cuticle protective balm melt 70% ucuuba with 30% oils.
This butter is also wonderful for hair and scalp care, but again, it needs to be blended.
Ucuuba is perfect for soap making for its properties and beautiful color, it is ideal for shampoo bars. In Brazil it is widely used in the production of artisanal candles. Soaps and creams made with ucuuba show a proven anti-inflammatory effect, and have healing and anti-
Thursday, May 12, 2016
Friday, February 5, 2016
7 Overkill Face Oil Blend
It is so much fun seeing your kids getting this kind of love!
You can get 2 oz. of this amazing oil for under 25 bucks! It is the best and the love keeps coming in:
"Love, Love, Love this oil, could tell right away when i put a few drops along with my other oils for my face serum, could really tell the difference, i like the oils that the shop owner has used for this product, all my favorites, was very happy to see that she did that, good price for what you get and all you need is a few drops in a small bottle. will buy this product again once i run out. thanks again."
"I have a sensitive skin and mostly get dark spots on my face but now my face is improving and glowing. I can see the spots fading."
"Purchased this small bottle specifically to have in my purse. Since I don't wear makeup, I can apply it anytime my face needs extra moisture. Thank you for offering it! This is the ONLY shop on Etsy from which I purchase skincare oils. Thank you for the extra sample. You're the best!!"
"I used to use your Maracuja oil about a year ago. I'm not even sure why I quit. I decided to try this one and I'm glad I did. It sinks right in like the Maracuja and makes my skin super soft! Thank you!!"
"- MuchÃsimas gracias for the free sample of the 7 Overkill oil! I had just finished taking off my makeup when I opened the package, so I applied it right after cleansing my face. The texture is AMAZING! When I first put it on I thought I would be too oily, but I spritzed my face with rose water as usual, then massaged it into my skin. Five minutes later, the oil had absorbed completely into my face & my skin felt like velvet! That velvety texture is how that I know I've found a too-quality facial oil/cream -- you don't get that feeling from cheap-ass silicone-based products. I like this stuff almost as much as my DYI facial oil -- & that's saying something! "
www.RainforestChica.com
Buying Exotic Oils & Butters
When buying an exotic oil (or butter) our first instinct is choosing by the price. Unfortunately, even if you are on a budget, you definitely should be more careful with this choice.
Most of our exotic fats come from parts of the world that have little to no regulation on this market. And the FDA knows very little and is way too busy to be really effective. As long as it says "vegetable oil" and "for external use only" chances are, the product is entering the country.
The FDA isn't even regulating the whole "organic" thing for cosmetics. Anyone can slap an "organic" on the description of a product and charge you a couple more bucks.
Things that can go wrong with exotic fats:
they can be mixed with cheaper oils or butters.
they can be produced by other methods than cold pressing, losing a lot of their properties.
they can be contaminated with undesirable stuff - eww!
they can be using slave-like working conditions.
their plantations can be destroying forests and animals.
their plantations may use a BUNCH of chemicals, stuff we sell to other countries because they are illegal here.
When buying a new oil or butter contact the shop, ask questions. Make sure they sound like they know what they are talking about. It doesn't matter if you are buying 1 oz. or 10 kgs. Ask where the product comes from, how it is produced, how it is harvested, if it is cold pressed, unrefined. If not wild harvested, if it is organic. Ask questions, wait for the answers, then make your decision!
It is your body, you only get one. Be very kind to it!
This post is also on my FORUM, please check it out and share your ideas and experiences with us!
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